nikon z6 settings spreadsheet, Nikon Z 6 at Amazon: – $1996.95, Nikon Z 6 at B and H: The setting that is responsible for that is “Apply settings to live view” and that’s the one I recommend to keep turned on. After I added your settings, I am seeing rectangles in a grid pattern appear on my screen. Thanks for your detailed article, Sharon. If you shoot a slower subject, set the minimum shutter speed to Auto (perhaps one or two steps towards “Faster”). NOTE: The below article is applicable for Nikon Z6 firmware v3.00. Many of the important functions, options, and additions of a new camera can be found in the menus and Custom Settings. I did not bother changing the lens buttons and control ring – the defaults work just fine. Of course there are additional menu items and functions that have not been discussed here, including many of the features found on previous models such as the D850. The nice thing is, you can specify up to 3 seconds of delay, which can completely eliminate camera shake originating from touching the camera’s shutter release button. The first one is useful for shooting with both the EVF and the LCD, but does end up wasting battery life because either the EVF or the LCD is always turned on. This feature can only be used with the Auto-Area AF area mode, and is enabled with Custom Setting a4. In addition, the Z6 has a better low-light sensitivity range of -3.5 to 19 EV vs -2 to 19 EV. Although one can use the “i” button to switch between autofocus modes, it simply takes longer. Then put that card in your Z6, set your Z6 to P, S, A or M mode on the top dial, press MENU > Wrench (Setup) > Save/Load settings (near the bottom of the menu, not the "Save user settings" option at the top) > Load settings > OK. The only time I ever change this is to set it to Monochrome to preview in-camera what a B&W image would look like), The User Settings (U1/U2/U3) do not retain the release mode settings. Right: Custom Setting f2 – Custom Control Assignment, to customize the various camera buttons. The most important setting for the Action user setting is the minimum shutter speed under ISO sensitivity settings. If you are running an older version of Nikon firmware, please make sure to update it before you load the settings file below. Aside from the standard buttons such as Playback, Trash and Menu, the Nikon Z6 has a few extra buttons on the back of the camera that are worth going over. This was useful for my wife, who doesn’t want to mess with settings. I hope you found this article useful. Now that we have gone through the whole menu and set up some defaults, let’s go ahead and set up the U1, U2 and U3 user settings. For erratic subjects that move in and out of the frame, Auto-area AF might work the best, while for subjects you can easily track, Dynamic-area AF might be a better choice. There are a few additional notable new features located in the Setup Menu, including the ability to adjust the Brightness and the Color Balance of both the rear Monitor and the electronic Viewfinder. Here is a quick recap: Other menu items such as Multiple exposure, HDR, Interval timer shooting, Time-lapse movie and Focus shift shooting are all used to engage specific tools and effects. I assign the second Fn2 button to “Metering” so that I can quickly switch between different metering modes, since I use the Z6 primarily for photographing people and action. If you have shaky hands, you can change the Minimum shutter speed Auto to be one step closer to “Faster”, which basically doubles the minimum shutter speed. If you have questions, or a suggestion feel free to leave them in the comments at the bottom of the page, I’ll maintain a change log of any significant changes in my change log and post updated files as new firmware is released. Note that the majority of these settings apply to the Nikon Z6 as well. I’m not sure if this menu item shown below is for enabling the in-body electronic image stabilization, or if it is an option that is used with newer Nikon lenses that have VR, but don’t have the VR and VR Mode switches on the lens itself. It is simply a video of someone navigating all the Z 7 menu items, the i Menu, and the Live View display, but lots of information can be gathered from this, including a few menu options that have not been mentioned in Nikon’s materials or by other reviews of the Nikon Z 7 and Nikon Z 6. If you shoot sports or wildlife, the Z6 has a couple of menu settings to limit the number of focusing options. Unlike the D800/D810 that used four memory banks that were selectable in the software, the Z7 has three user configurable settings (U1, U2, U3) not unlike a D750 or D7500. Focus and recompose is also easier as you don’t have to keep the shutter half-pressed, just release the AF-ON button and the camera stops focusing. If you are planning to use the focus peaking feature in Live View, I would recommend to set your desired color and sensitivity. To access these options quickly while shooting, you can assign WB to one of the customizable buttons, and then press that button and change the WB setting as you view it in the electronic Viewfinder or on the rear Monitor, as shown in the figure below. When switching to shoot portraits, some of the settings such as Auto ISO and face recognition should be turned on. If enabled, you will be able to also view the active surrounding AF Points, in the Viewfinder when shooting, and not just see the single selected AF Point. It works very well, but takes a bit of getting used to. Despite having the option to shoot video with my cameras, I very rarely do. The new Peaking Stack Image option will display a monochrome preview of the final focus-stacked images, which can be viewed after the focus stacking function is performed. Below the Menu button, you will also find the “Release Mode” button. When shooting hand-held, I mostly use Auto ISO, because it is a great feature that saves me a lot of time. This will add all the recommended settings from this article. Make sure to add a few important items under “MY MENU”, so that you can have quick access to them. Please don’t consider my video settings optimal, I almost never need them. The Movie Picture Control option is shown here, but a similar menu is also found in the Photo Shooting Menu, for still image shooting. The joystick is used for moving focus points and pressing the joystick button resets/centers the AF point – this is the default behavior. Left: Custom Setting a4, to enable AF Face Detection when working in Auto-Area AF area mode. First up is “Image quality”, which you should set to “RAW”. Right: Custom Setting a5, to limit the number of selectable AF Points. Similarly, you can also use the Self-timer feature, although Self-timer does not have such short delays as 0.2 seconds (the minimum is 2 seconds). It is best to leave the AF-C priority selection at the default “Release” option, so that the camera takes a picture even if the subject is not in focus. The cameras also offer a Silent Shutter option, which will be completely silent. As for color, the Red color typically works the best, but it all depends on the color of the subject you are photographing, so make sure to select the appropriate color from this menu. All of the screenshots in this post have been taken from this video. If you want to completely eliminate Shutter Shock, you will need to make sure that the camera can automatically switch between Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter (EFCS) and mechanical shutter. Program Mode, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and Manual modes, Recommended Camera Menu Settings for Landscape Photography, Z6 II vs. Z7 II – advice on which one better for enthusiast level, To watermark or not to watermark on prints. My menu settings are very different – I start off with more critical things like Focus Mode, AF-area mode, Metering, and Bracketing. To keep the clutter out, I have three things turned on: “Focus point”, which allows me to see where I focused, “Highlights” to show overexposure in shots (a.k.a.

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